Bring a Loupe: A Mint Movado World Timer, A ‘Nina Rindt’ Compax, And A Jet-Set Longines
It’s that time of the week again, so take a seat, get comfortable, and do your best to resist temptation. This installment of the roundup features picks like an impossibly mint Movado world timer along with a similarly jet-set Longines. For the chronograph heads, we’ve got a Nina Rindt Compax of the highest quality, in addition to a bit of a project Breitling. And, just because, a book of risqué complications.
Universal Genève Compax Ref. 885103/02
Like Heuer, UG is another one of those brands that experienced a boom and then mellowed out, but perhaps not as much. Those that followed the market will know the culprit behind Universal Genève’s resurgent rise to stardom to be this Compax variant, notably associated with the model Nina Rindt. Between the celebrity association, the Valjoux 72 under the hood, its perfect sizing, and that oh-so-good panda dial, it’s one of those watches that’s bound to be collectible forever, explaining its continued strength despite an otherwise less ravenous demand for pieces from the now-defunct Swiss watchmaker. If good looks and perpetual collectibility are your jam, keep reading.
To the untrained eye, this is merely a Nina Rindt Compax, but to describe it as such would be to deprive you of the juicy nitty-gritty that makes vintage watch collecting so much fun. This is the Mark 2 variant of the reference, distinguished by the printed logo on its dial and the “SWISS T 25” text below the six o’clock marker. Later examples like this with 2.5 million serials and on were also fitted with black hour and minute hands, along with block-shaped hands within the subdials. Altogether, it’s got a decidedly funkier look than those that came before it, without straying too far from the genius of the original design.
I can confidently say that this is easily among the top three best examples of the coveted chronograph to hit the market in recent years, thanks to its present condition and completeness. You’ll find no flaws on its dial or correct dot over 90 bezel, and the original crystal fitted case remains thick. Intensifying its appeal is the presence of its original box, hang tags, Gay Fréres bracelet, and papers, which indicate the watch was originally sold in Japan. Not sure why, but these seem to have been big in Japan, way back …read more
