The world’s thinnest wristwatch minute repeater movement is Bulgari’s caliber BVL 362 Finissimo, which heretofore has only been used by Bulgari in the company’s ultra-thin Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater. Such a flat movement lends itself to many interpretations, however; the Diva’s Dream Minute Repeater is the first time the firm’s used the movement in a traditionally styled ladies’ timepiece.
Why This Watch Matters
Watches created specifically with the intention of embodying a traditional notion of femininity are not generally graced with record setting examples of high complications. The Diva’s Dream Minute Repeater is an example of a relatively rare kind of watch: a ladies’ watch with a very feminine design and very decorative purpose which not only cuts no corners in the movement, but actually uses one of the most extraordinary complicated movements on the market today. The dial is decorated with Japanese urushi lacquer, sprinkled with gold dust (the technique is known as maki-e).
This is a quite impressive new outing for Bulgari. The movement is a major technical accomplishment; at just 3.12mm thick, the hand-wound caliber BVL 362 impressed us very much when it first appeared in the Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater. (Our Hands On, with live recording, is right here.) That watch, however, is not exactly an example of a classically feminine design, with its modernist, eight-sided case and grey-on-grey color scheme.
The Diva’s Dream repeater is very much something else, and is as lushly and overtly beautiful as the Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater is full of post-modern urbanity. The 37mm case takes an open fan as the inspiration for its lug shape, with another, smaller fan dangling from the slide for the minute repeater. Rather than titanium (as seen in the Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater) the case is made of pink gold, which has long had a reputation as the best material overall for minute repeater cases, with the addition of copper to gold adding warmth to the tone of the repeater, and improving the ability of the case to act as a sound board for the chimes inside. And, huzzars, there is a display back, allowing you to admire the movement.