The selection for this week is pretty eclectic, but no less impressive, if I do say so myself. We start with what we could call the king of diving watches: the Rolex Submariner, with a reference 5513 in a rare silver-print configuration. We also have an early Omega Speedmaster 105.003 “Ed White,” a highly desirable reference which is even more coveted with the “tropical” dial you see here. After these tool watches, we had to feature the absolutely exquisite Vacheron Constantin Prestige de la France, and a golden Baume & Mercier Baumatic with a micro-rotor automatic caliber. This is your Bring A Loupe for July 21, 2017.
Omega Speedmaster 105.003 ‘Ed White,’ With Tropical Dial
The reference 105.003 was the last Speedmaster to come with a 38mm case with straight lugs, before the introduction of the 42mm case with crown guards and lyre lugs. It was produced from 1963 onwards, and was famously worn by astronaut Ed White on his spacewalk, hence its nickname. It is still considered as a Pre-Professional model, but the larger pushers and straight hands give notice of the upcoming transition.
The tropical dial is obviously a major asset of this Speedy, which still comes with the original “Dot Over 90” bezel. The serial number of its chronograph caliber 321 dates it to 1963, the first production year for the reference 105.003. The case shows light polishing but still presents the characteristic bevel on the straight lugs. The fading of the tritium lume is homogeneous between the painted indexes and the original handset.
Rolex Submariner Reference 5513, With Rare Silver Printing
The Rolex Submariner reference 5513 was introduced in 1962; in comparison to the pre-existing reference 5512 its movement was not chronometer-certified, which allowed for a lower price. The very first examples share a few characteristics present here, from the “exclamation point” Swiss signed dial to the pointed crown guards (often abbreviated PCG).
Yet, this Submariner comes with a rare feature: silver lettering for the depth rating and Submariner lines. It is believed that only the very first 5513 had this configuration, which is confirmed by the exclamation point dial found in …read more