By Louis Westphalen
This week, Bring A Loupe comes with a geographic bias: It only features watches that are being sold in Europe. We start with a 1930s Rolex with a luminous sector dial, and then move to a transitional Omega Speedmaster from 1968. Today you’ll also discover a full-set, double-signed Memovox and a funky Heuer Autavia “Orange Boy.” This is your Bring A Loupe for September 16, 2016.
1930s Rolex Reference 2563, With Black Sector Dial
In this exact configuration, the Rolex reference 2563 made it into 100 Superlative Rolex Watches. The placement was well deserved. The dial is obviously its most striking feature, with a black sector track rendered in radium paint. On a basic level, it feels very similar to the Laurent Ferrier Boréal presented at SIHH this year. The case is also interesting, offering long, curved lugs that make the watch look and wear bigger on the wrist than the 30mm diameter would suggest. It would be interesting to know whether this watch is actually the one sold at Christie’s for almost $17,500 10 years ago, although that example with serial 022424 (same first 3 digits as the present example) came with a Gay Frères bracelet.
The Monaco-based dealer Only Vintage is offering this rare and very pretty Rolex for €25,000 (approximately $28,000 at time of publishing) here.
Omega Speedmaster Reference 145.022, With A Transitional Applied Logo
The reference 145.022 was the first Speedmaster to come with the 861 movement, the successor to the iconic column wheel caliber 321. Usually, it is also known for the painted logo on its step dial. Here, the Omega sign is applied, as it was on the previous reference, and rightfully so. Indeed, the Speedies produced in 1968 exhibit this feature, and are therefore qualified as “transitional” – in other words, offering the latest mechanical upgrade while remaining visually consistent with the previous offering. In addition, this Speedmaster offers a fat lyre case, and the correct “Dot Over 90” bezel. The seller also indicates that the movement has been checked and is running properly. Note that the crown seems to be a service part, given the large gap between the feet of the engraved Omega emblem there.
The German dealer Rarebirds